About surf

The thing with surfboards came about one afternoon. My dad dragged me to watch this movie, on a Wednesday I think. I must have been seven or eight years old. The movie was showing in Costa Rica for two days only so we had to go. I remember the guys loading their boards on the back of their old trucks, the sun setting on the horizon, the golden light shinning through the fiberglass translucent fins. That stuck in my memory bank. I learnt how to surf ten years later, the year my father died. I went on to be part of the same movie some years later and saw my life come at full circle. Having been part of that project means a lot to me. Last year Bruce Brown was in town and I was able to thank him for the opportunity and talk story with the man. What a guy! some one that night asked me how I got the part in the movie. I said I'd be the wrong person to ask, you are going to have to ask Bruce that question. So when he got to it he said, "well, I just asked you if you wanted to work for free"..........................surfing has given me so much so building boards is a lot like playing God in a way. You decide who gets what. Charles Williams was the guy that taught me how to shape. I'd been playing with all the concepts and such but it was Charley who gave me the visuals, the method to the madness. I am always quoting him when talking story wherever, whenever. Specially among the young guys. Charley if from Florida and he charges. I have seen him committed to the most horrendous pits and his facial expressions show nothing but piece of mind. I find my self surfing my best when he is here. Some times I'll paddle to the channel and enjoy the show. I have my limits. He has spent a lot of time surfing his surfboards IMPACT in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. He is extremely humble and was one of the things that impressed me the most while going surfing. I want to leave you with one of his favorite lines. "It's easier to be a better surfer than a better person"